hmm...perhaps will try this soon too

btw here is a better picture of the two resistors

(http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/317/1011021pw5.th.jpg)

Or just do both and you have more brightness than you can handle. o_O

well i had to strip mine down several times before i got it right
just check the keys remember which isnt bright enough then go a little deeper
it will take to get it right
ive mannaged to fix the dull keys around the enter key now
i will take a new picture of my results
oh yeah i allso removed the little resistors and increased the voltage
just hope they dont burn out :/

bottom left alt needs doing and the number 1 and to the left of it allso
notice no dullness around ghjklyuiopvbnm,.

Instead of scratching it the way I've seen it done here ....   What about approaching it like an etching with a dremel and wire wheel or other etching attachment, etching fluid, or just with some coarse sandpaper.  You only need to achieve opaque right?

My thoughts on this are based upon me testing a theory once with a  Logitech PSP hard case.   I scratched it up on some concrete with the challenge of buffing it out to new again.

I failed, but even with the polishing wheel which actually rotated so fast it melted the perspex a little and the area I worked on became smooth but opaque.  opaque would be a good result and is in some fashion what your scrathing is doing.

I've also seen this done at macy's too...  Where people would have custom Christmas ornaments from crystal etched with quite intricate designs and then their design alone lights up when a tree light was placed in the top receptacle.   This is the same thing basically.   These guys could create a snow landscape and where a slope of snowy land was is was just a relief cut area that was opaqued and it was very bright when done.

Judging by how this type of lighting works and can be directed with light pipes and panels and whatnot. etching even with a fluid seems reasonable.

Why etch with scissors?   I hate my lycosa simply because it's just too small and I've been used to a split form ergo keyboard for years now but I would think twice about using it if I could actually see it.  So maybe I'll attempt this approach and keep you posted.

Hello Nice mod. I did it too, but im wondering that with 4.7v now how long the led's will last ?

yes..bridging the resistors...there are only 10ohm resistors. enough to limit the power for the leds
it is a coated wire but you can use any wire you have

lackdraht wenn er erhitzt wird mitn lötkolbn schmilzt der lack und an der stelle kann man dann löten!

heh, so, errr I tried poci's mod (bypassing R7 and R10).

I too was extremely disappointed with the level of brightness of the keys. Unfortunately now they all seem to be out...... on a permenant basis

The keyboard itself works fine, the lighting bar works fine if connected to a battery, but doesn't work plugged into the board with the resistors on. The touchpanel works, I can cycle between all off, the wasd cluster on (works) and all off again.

At some point during the mod I skillfully managed to burn the top off Q1. I *think* I did this after it wasn't working when I was having a play, but who knows? 

Obviously all done completely at my own risk.

2 questions:

1) What's the likelyhood of razer selling me a replacement board? (the module, not a whole new keyboard, which I'm sure they'd be happy to sell)
2) Can I wire the led bar into something else to draw power? Can I take it directly from the USB port (with approriate resistor) or am I just asking for trouble?

Thanks

looks nice